The Best Fitting Books for Plus-Size Sewists

When it comes to sewing, the difference between a garment that looks ‘okay’ and one that makes you feel truly confident often comes down to fit. Yet, for plus-size sewists, finding fitting advice that really works for our bodies can be challenging.

That’s why I’ve put together this guide to some of the best fitting books available, each offering valuable insights into achieving a great fit—whether you’re making adjustments to commercial envelope patterns on tissue or printed PDFs from indie designers.

Why Invest in a Fitting Book?

If you’ve ever:

Struggled to adjust patterns to fit your unique body
Been frustrated by tutorials that don’t consider plus-size bodies
Wanted a step-by-step approach to making adjustments that actually work for the pattern you’re making

A fitting book can be an absolute game-changer. While there are plenty of fitting resources online, having a well-structured guide at your fingertips can make all the difference.

Here are three books I highly recommend.

1. Palmer & Pletsch: Complete Guide to Fitting

Cover of the book "The Palmer/Pletsch Complete Guide to Fitting".

Best for: Commercial pattern alterations with a tissue-fitting approach
Buy it from: https://geni.us/completeguidefitting

Palmer & Pletsch are widely regarded as experts in the world of pattern fitting. This book walks you through their tissue-fitting method, which allows you to make adjustments directly on a paper pattern before you even cut into fabric. This method can be particularly useful if you often find that standard pattern sizes don’t accommodate your shape, or the instructions that come with the pattern are minimal.

Key Features: ✔ Covers full bust, rounded back, full arms, and hip adjustments for many different styles of garment—great for adjustments you make as standard to every pattern you sew
✔ Step-by-step fitting photos of real people to bring the fitting process to life and show how multiple adjustments interact together
✔ Focuses on problem solving and occasionally offers multiple ways to achieve a good result
✔ A wrinkle dictionary for diagnosing fit issues and suggested adjustments to tackle them

If you frequently work with printed sewing patterns and want to refine your adjustments before cutting into fabric, this book is a must-have.

2. Cashmerette: Ahead of the Curve

Jenny Rushmore is on the cover of her book, smiling and wearing a blue dress with a red belt.

Best for: Fitting plus-size bodies with a focus on larger busts, bellies and full figures
Buy it from: https://geni.us/cashmeretteaotc

If you sew for a plus-size body, you know that standard fitting advice doesn’t always work. That’s where Jenny Rushmore’s fitting book shines—it’s specifically designed for plus-size women and provides fitting solutions tailored to women with large busts in particular.

Key Features: ✔ Size-inclusive fitting approach, with adjustments designed for plus-size sewists
✔ Includes five modern patterns to put fitting lessons into practice
✔ Explains why traditional fitting advice doesn’t always work for plus-size bodies
✔ Includes before and after pictures showing the adjustment on the toile (muslin)

This book is a fantastic choice if you’re looking for size-specific fitting guidance and love Cashmerette’s body-neutral approach to plus-size sewing.

3. McCall's Figure Your Fit

The cover of the McCall's booklet "Figure Your Fit", it shows a stylised dressmaker's dummy wearing a vintage-style red dress and red silk scarf.

Best for: A handy reference guide for quick fitting adjustments
Buy it from: https://geni.us/FigureYourFit

Published by McCall’s in 2018, This slim volume is more of a compact reference guide than an in-depth fitting manual. At just A6 size with 64 pages, it highlights the most common fitting adjustments in a no-frills, clear way.

This makes it a great choice for:
✔ Keeping next to your sewing machine as a handy reference for common fitting adjustments
✔ Slipping into your sewing bag for classes or sewing meet-ups
✔ Sewists who find detailed fitting books overwhelming and want a trusted, bite-sized resource

If you’re looking for an easy-to-use fitting guide that won’t take up space on your sewing table, Figure Your Fit would be a useful, low-cost addition to your sewing library.

Which Fitting Book is Right for You?

If you’re adjusting commercial patterns ➝ Palmer & Pletsch: Complete Guide to Fitting
If you’re plus-size and want a size-inclusive, body-neutral approach ➝ Cashmerette: Ahead of the Curve
If you want a pocket-sized fitting guide for quick reference ➝ McCall's: Figure Your Fit

Fitting is a journey, and having the right resources at your fingertips makes all the difference.

Want to dive deeper? Check out the books here:

📚 Palmer and Pletsch: Complete Guide to Fitting
📚 Jenny Rushmore of Cashmerette: Ahead of the Curve
📚 McCall’s: Figure Your Fit (Get 10% off with a Minerva Craft Club membership here)